Photograph by Antonio Sánchez
About 75 km from Granada, Bubión rises on the cliffs at the edge of the Poqueira Valley, on the southern slope of Sierra Nevada. Bubión, named from the Latin "land of oxen", has 340 inhabitants today; it is not surprising that this is one of the quietest and most peaceful spots that can be found in the whole Alpujarra.
Its intermediate situation at 1,300 meters (4,430 ft) of altitude makes this small village the most privileged of the Poqueira Valley, offering the most spectacular perspectives of the place.
Photograph by Antonio Sánchez
To the north, the colossal peaks of Sierra Nevada rise up behind the silhouette of Capileira. In front, the opposite slope of the gorge is beautifully dotted by some farmhouses. And to the south, weather permitting, the horizon gives way to the African mountains of the Moroccan Atlas, behind the Mediterranean Sea. With a bit of luck, on clear days it is possible to distinguish the boats beyond the coast.
The distinct character of the Alpujarra emanates from the streets and houses built in Arab times and conserved by the inhabitants of Bubión, a place that has been designated as Conjunto Histórico-Artístico, a region of special artistic and historical importance. Through these streets, countless fountains invite walkers to taste the purity of the Sierra Nevada water during their visit.
In Bubión, the succession of the seasons brings constant changes in the landscape. The frosts in the silent dawn of the cold winter, with the occasional snowfalls from November to March, contrast with the changes of the coming months: the cherry blossoms announce the arrival of spring and the fields begin to fill with life and color. The trees paint the landscape with vivid tonalities, while migratory birds such as the swallow or the common house martin return from the African continent to nest in the warm summer period. The large tourist arrivals, the festivities and the mild temperatures in this part of the mountains explain the hustle and bustle of this time of year.
In September, the stunning sunsets that turn the sky red and purple give way to autumn, when the deciduous forests begin to change color at the same time that the trees lose their leaves. The orange, reddish and yellowish tones announce again the return of the cold and dark winter months.
Each season is a different experience in Bubión, where tourist attractions abound. As examples, in the historical center we can find the parish church (Parroquia de Nuestra Señora del Rosario) built in the 16th century, and a traditional house converted to a small folk museum (Museo de la Casa Alpujarreña). If you want to explore the whole place, the outdoors lavaderos, lookouts and textile workshops are the best incentive, without leaving aside the restaurants and bars where you can taste the delicious tipical food and gastronomy of the Alpujarra.
Not far from the village you can visit the hermitage of Saint Anthony, the ancient chestnuts and the eras through the different routes and paths departing from Bubión. Whichever option is chosen, it is an extraordinary opportunity for hiking and horseback riding in an environment of chestnuts, holm oaks and mulberry trees.
The patronal feasts in honor of Saint Sebastian and Saint Anthony take place twice a year: during the weekend nearest 20 January and the penultimate weekend of the month of August. Another outstanding festival is the famous chisco de San Antón on the night of January 17, celebrated in many of the Alpujarra villages.
All these circumstances and particularities make Bubión a cultural crossroads forged from ancient times by Phoenicians, Romans, Visigoths, Arabs and Christians.
Places to visit
Bubión Church
Mudejar style, the parish church stands on the cliffs in the lower part of the village, in the historical center, dominating the view of the entire Poqueira Valley. Standing on the remains of an ancient Nasrid bastion, the temple has gone through many vicissitudes throughout its history: it was burnt down during the Morisco Revolt, at Christmas of 1568. Later, in the 19th century, it was greatly damaged by many earthquakes.